More authentic than a nesting doll and infinitely more enjoyable to eat, the food and beverage at Russian Tea Time makes me want to throw a babushka over my shoulder and do that dance with the high kicks. Or put on a fur hat and be morose. It's always a good time for Russian Tea Time but there are a few occasions when you'll especially appreciate its unique charms: you haven't had an afternoon tea party since your dolls were put in the attic and you want to go pinkies up; you're craving comfort food but are tired of over-processed crap; you want to enjoy vodka like a Russian but don't have twenty luxury brands at your fingertips. At this restaurant you can have any (or all) of those things and chat with the grandmotherly owner while you're at it. The family treatment you get here will dispel any Boris & Natasha Soviet badnik misperceptions you may have had about the country with the largest stockpile of nuclear weapons in the world. At Russian Tea Time they've put down the bomb and picked up the borscht.